Three iconic patterns of the men’s wardrobe, three different ways of interpreting checks. Damier, Madras and Prince of Wales share a similar visual structure (squares and intersecting lines) yet tell profoundly different stories that span geographies, eras and cultures. From colonial trade routes between Europe and India to British courts, all the way to the graphic codes of contemporary maisons, these patterns have become textile languages. But how do they differ? And what are their origins?

Once upon a time in Madras, India

Madras originates on the south-eastern coast of India, in present-day Chennai, historically known as Madras. As early as the 17th century, this region developed a textile tradition defined by handkerchiefs and accessories featuring irregular checks, vibrant colors and a seemingly spontaneous construction. Unlike more rigid patterns, Madras allows colors to overlap, creating soft nuances and a lively, ever-shifting grid.

Damier: the checkerboard of fashion

Damier is perhaps the most essential of the three patterns, and for this reason, the most geometric. The term literally means “checkerboard” in French, perfectly describing its structure: evenly sized squares, alternating in a precise and continuous repetition. Its origins are more decorative than sartorial, yet Damier entered the fashion imagination through its adoption by French maisons, which turned it into a distinctive visual code.

From noble title to textile pattern: Prince of Wales

The pattern evolved from traditional tartans of the Glenurquhart region in Scotland, but rose to prominence when it was adopted by the Duke of Windsor, then Prince of Wales. It consists of a base check overlaid with a larger windowpane, often highlighted by a secondary color. Now a cornerstone of formal and business wardrobes, it stands as a symbol of British elegance with a distinctive edge.

Three different patterns, bound by a common thread: the ability to move through time, adapting to new contexts and interpretations.

Today, these motifs find new life in our collections.

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